3D Printing 505 Parts

I tried my hand on a few 3d printed parts for the 505. Onshpape is free if you are willing to have your files publically available. For the most part, I used *.stl files and all3dp.com which is a clearinghouse of sorts for a bunch of different 3D printing shops – it seemed to give the best price with the least shopping. In most case printing in ABS, the printed part was cheaper than the shipping to Maui it arrived in the mailbox 5-7 working days – no muss no fuss.

Jib Cleat Risers & Compass Bracket

For the jib sheet cleat risers, I started with a CAD file from the web and sliced it to the height.

The tactik micro compass brackets below fit great – but the ABS melted during a road trip to the NAs 2019. I used Compass_Mount_final_v1.stl from Thingiverse.

tactik micro mount and jib sheet cleat risers printed in ABS

I will need to test in the heat and see how it holds up compared to the ABS.

tactik micro mount in polycarbonate

Halyard Lock

The halyard lock was more of a challenge. I mangled the 40mm x 5 sex bolt and decided to go with one metric and one imperial. To copy the existing part, I printed out 1mm graph paper and traced the outline. This worked well because when I scanned and imported it into the Onshape the hole spacing was 40mm, and spot-on in the trace – very lucky, no scaling. Extrude the outline, drill a few holes, and subtract the slot. Not more than 6 hours at the computer, including learning the CAD basics. I did mess around with making my own bolts, but making the threads in CAD proved to be a big learning curve.

Tweaked halyard lock

Tracing on 1mm graph paper

Part drawing

I printed in plastic and 316L stainless. The L contains less carbon. I looked at the Material Data Sheet but found the yield to be close and hardness to be similar to 316.

The finished product

You can see that the holes are not round, corrected with a rat-tail file.

3D Printed Halyard Lock

Holes Requiring Filing

Installed but not trade wind tested (yet). I can report back in a few months.

Listing Category	Description	Typical Price Point (USD)
1	Pre- 1980’s boat of uncared or partially cored construction. Typically polyester or vinyl ester resin and outdated rigging. Suitable for day sailing, beach sailing, or an occasional local race or Portsmouth Yardstick regatta.	$0 - $2,000
2	1980’s or newer boat of fully cored hull construction. Could be competitive at the local and regional level in the right hands. Usually has some major issue preventing the boat from being truly completive such as being significantly over the minimum weight. May require significant rigging work to get racing but not worth duping too much money into.	$2,000 - $5,000
3	1980’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Some older and well-cared-for Lindsays and Hamlins could also be considered a Category 3 boat. Could be competitive at the local, regional, and national level in the right hands. Typically requires some significant amount of rigging work to be competitive at the regional and national level. May not have the latest mast, foils, or sails which would set it apart from a Category 4 boat.	$5,000 - $9,000
4	1990’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Some older and well-cared-for Waterats could also be considered a Category 4 boat. Ready to race at the regional or national level with only minor rigging work or upgrades. Could be competitive at a Worlds with some work and in the right hands. Typically includes modern high-aspect ration foils, newer racing sails, and all the latest systems.	$9,000 - $15,000
5	2000’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Typically carbon fiber construction. Turn-key and ready to race at the national or international level. Includes modern high-aspect ration foils, newer racing sails, and all the latest systems.	$15,000+

Listing Category	Description	Typical Price Point (USD)
1	Pre- 1980’s boat of uncared or partially cored construction. Typically polyester or vinyl ester resin and outdated rigging. Suitable for day sailing, beach sailing, or an occasional local race or Portsmouth Yardstick regatta.	$0 - $2,000
2	1980’s or newer boat of fully cored hull construction. Could be competitive at the local and regional level in the right hands. Usually has some major issue preventing the boat from being truly completive such as being significantly over the minimum weight. May require significant rigging work to get racing but not worth duping too much money into.	$2,000 - $5,000
3	1980’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Some older and well-cared-for Lindsays and Hamlins could also be considered a Category 3 boat. Could be competitive at the local, regional, and national level in the right hands. Typically requires some significant amount of rigging work to be competitive at the regional and national level. May not have the latest mast, foils, or sails which would set it apart from a Category 4 boat.	$5,000 - $9,000
4	1990’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Some older and well-cared-for Waterats could also be considered a Category 4 boat. Ready to race at the regional or national level with only minor rigging work or upgrades. Could be competitive at a Worlds with some work and in the right hands. Typically includes modern high-aspect ration foils, newer racing sails, and all the latest systems.	$9,000 - $15,000
5	2000’s or newer boat of epoxy resin and fully cored construction. Typically carbon fiber construction. Turn-key and ready to race at the national or international level. Includes modern high-aspect ration foils, newer racing sails, and all the latest systems.	$15,000+

Jib Cleat Risers & Compass Bracket

Halyard Lock

The finished product

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